Flashcards – Chapters 11-18 Hair Care Services (30% of Exam)

Term used to describe the covering of the client’s clothing with a cape for their protection

Products designed to moisturize the hair or restore some of the hair’s oils or proteins

Cream-based products and ointments used to soften and improve the health of the scalp

Process of using steam towels or a steaming unit to soften and open scalp pores

Hair and scalp cleansing products

Process of forcing substances into tissues using galvanic current from the negative toward the positive pole

Tonic lotions with an alcohol content of up to 35 percent; used to remove oil accumulation on oily and acne-prone skin

An electrical appliance with interchangeable brushes that is used to mechanically cleanse, stimulate, and exfoliate the skin surface

Process of forcing acidic substances into tissues using galvanic current from the positive toward the negative pole

Any product, procedure, or treatment that should be avoided because it may cause undesirable side effects or be harmful to the individual

The process of deep pore cleansing using an electrode and acid-based solution to create a chemical reaction that helps to emulsify or liquefy sebum and waste from the skin

High-frequency current performed with the mushroom- or rake-shaped electrodes for its calming and germicidal effect on the skin

Light, continuous stroking movement applied with the fingers (digital) or the palms (palmar) in a slow, rhythmic manner

Massaging unit that attaches to the barber’s hand to impart vibrating massage movements to the skin surface

An electrical appliance that produces and projects moist, uniform steam for softening and cleansing purposes

Skin tonics with the lowest alcohol content of 0 to 4 percent; usually de-signed for dry, mature, and sensitive skin types

Deep rubbing movement requiring pressure on the skin with the fingers or palm while moving the hand over an underlying structure

High-frequency current administered with the client holding the wire glass electrode between both hands

The process of using galvanic current to enable ion-containing water- soluble solutions to penetrate the skin

A type of galvanic treatment that uses a very low level of electrical current for different applications in skin care

A form of mechanical exfoliation that involves spraying aluminum oxide or other microcrystals across the skin’s surface to exfoliate dead cells

A point on the skin, over a muscle, where pressure or stimulation will cause contraction of that muscle

Another name for tapotement

Kneading movement performed by lifting, squeezing, and pressing the tissue with a light, firm pressure

Cleansing and exfoliating product used in facials to lift dead skin cells and dirt from the skin surface

Toners, fresheners, and astringents; products used to help rebalance skin pH, remove product residue, and create a temporary tightening effect on the skin

Most stimulating massage movement, consisting of short, quick tapping, slapping, and hacking movements

Skin tonics with an alcohol content of 4 to 15 percent; most are designed for use on normal and combination skin types

A tender area in a muscle caused by a localized knot or spasm in the muscle fiber that can radiate pain to other locations in the body

In massage, the rapid shaking of the body part while the fingertips are pressed firmly on the point of application

Razor position and stroke used in 4 of the 14 basic shaving areas: nos. 2, 6, 7, and 9; optional position for area 12

The procedure of shaving facial hair against the grain during the second-time-over shave

The correct angle of cutting the beard with a straight razor

First part of the standard shave consisting of shaving the 14 areas of the face; followed by the second-time-over shave to remove residual missed or rough spots

Razor position and stroke used in 6 of the 14 shaving areas: nos. 1, 3, 4, 8, 11, and 12

Shaving the areas behind the ears down the sides of the neck, and at the back neckline

Single-lather shave in which the shaving strokes are made across the grain of the hair

Razor position and stroke used by right-handed barbers for shaving the left side of the neck behind the ear and used by left-handed barbers behind the right ear

Razor position and stroke used in 4 of the 14 basic shaving areas: nos. 5, 10, 13, and 14

Follows a regular shave to remove any rough or uneven spots using water instead of lather; may be considered a form of close shaving

Alum powder or liquid used to stop bleeding of nicks and cuts

The space between two lines or surfaces that intersect at a given point; in haircutting, the hair is held away from the head to create an angle of elevation

Method used to cut around the ears and down the sides of the neck

The equal or appropriate proportions that create symmetry and harmony in a design

Technique of drying and styling damp hair in one process

Cutting over a comb with the clippers

The widest area of the head, also known as the parietal ridge, temporal region, hatband, or horseshoe

The process of parting off subsections opposite from the elevation or direction at which they were cut to check the precision of cutting lines or blending

Lines that move in a semicircular or circular direction

Cutting of the hair is performed on the outside of the fingers; used with horizontal or vertical 90-degree projections of hair

Cutting of the hair is below or performed on the inside of the fingers; used in 0- and 45-degree elevation cutting

The position of the fingers when cutting a section of hair

Cutting of the hair is performed with the palms of both hands facing each other; an alternative method used in layering vertical or horizontal sections of hair

Usually the perimeter line of a haircut

Lines positioned between horizontal and vertical lines

Angle or degree at which a subsection of hair is held, or elevated, from the head when cutting; also referred to as projection

The ability to picture or see something in your mind

Oval, round, inverted triangular, square, oblong, diamond, and pear-shaped are the seven facial shapes

Cutting technique performed by holding the hair section between the fingers and cutting either from the top to the bottom of the section or from one side to the other; also known as freehand slicing with a razor

Technique used to cut hair by holding the hair into a position to be cut

The outline or shape of a design

Generally interpreted to mean that guards are not used in the cutting process

Cutting with shears without the use of fingers or a comb to control the hair

Method of removing bulk from a hair section with the shears

Section of hair, located at either the perimeter or the interior of the cut, that determines the length the hair will be cut to; also referred to as a guideline; usually the first section that is cut to create a shape

The process that occurs when coiled hair is allowed to develop in its natural state without the use of combs, heat, or chemicals

The art of arranging the hair in a particular style that is appropriately suited to the cut

Lines parallel to the horizon

Graduated effect achieved by cutting the hair with elevation or overdirection; the hair is cut at higher elevations, usually 90 degrees or above, which re-moves weight

Finish work of a haircut with shears, trimmers, or razor

Combing a section away from its natural falling position, rather than straight out from the head, toward a guideline; used to create increasing lengths in the interior or perimeter

Widest area of the head, also known as the crest, hatband, horseshoe, or temporal region

A line, created naturally or with a comb, that divides the hair at the scalp, separating one section of the hair from another

A line dividing the hair of the scalp that separates one section of the hair from another or creates subsections from a larger section of hair

Angle or elevation that hair is held at from the head for cutting

A design principle that measures or shows the comparative relationship between two or more design elements of a form

Texturizing technique in which the comb and the razor are used on the surface of the hair

Texturizing technique similar to razor-over-comb, done with small circular motions

Points on the head that mark where the surface of the head changes or the behavior of the hair changes, such as ears, jawline, occipital bone, and apex; used to establish design lines that are proportionate

A method used to put the hair into position for cutting by combing into the hair with the teeth of the comb in an upward direction

Haircutting technique in which the hair is held in place with the comb while the shears are used to remove length

Haircutting technique used to thin out difficult areas in the haircut, such as dips and hollows

Guideline that does not move, but all other hair is brought to it for cutting

Haircuts in which there is an even blend from very short at the hairline to longer lengths as you move up the head; to taper is to narrow progressively at one end

Amount of pressure applied when combing and holding a section, created by stretching or pulling the section

Removing excess bulk without shortening the length; changing the appear-ance or behavior of hair through specific haircutting techniques using shears, thinning shears, clippers, or a razor

Removing bulk from the hair

Guideline that moves as the haircutting progresses; used when creating layers or graduation; also referred to as moving or movable guidelines

Lines that are straight up and down

A visual line in the haircut, where the ends of the hair hang together; the line of maximum length within the weight area: heaviest perimeter area of a 0-degree (one-length) or 45-degree (graduated) cut

An oral medication prescribed for men only to stimulate hair growth

A surgical technique that involves the removal of a bald scalp area and the attachment of a flap of hair-bearing skin

The process of attaching a hair replacement system to all areas of the head with an adhesive bonding agent

Process used to comb through the hair strands to separate them

Formerly called a hairpiece; also known as a hair solution

Any small wig used to cover the top or crown of the head and integrated with the natural hair

Any form of hair restoration that involves the surgical removal and reloca-tion of hair, including scalp reduction and flap surgery

Popular hair solution style used for off-the-face styles

Topical medication used to promote hair growth or reduce hair loss

Refers to sorting the hair strands so that the cuticle points toward the hair ends in its natural direction of growth

The surgical removal of a bald area, followed by the pulling together of the scalp ends

Outdated term used to describe a small hair replacement that covers the top or crown of the head

Also known as styling; a head-shaped form made of plastic, foam, or other materials used as a stand for a wig or hair replacement system

The stationary foundation of the curl on which the barrel (or roller) is placed

Technique of drying and styling damp hair in one process

Haircut in which all the hair comes to one point at 0 elevation to form a weight line

Also known as the curl; part of a curl that forms a complete circle

Graduated, wedge, or stacked shape at the perimeter of a haircut, usually cut at 45 degrees

Styling method that uses the head as a tool to set the hair in a straight position

Temporarily straightening hair by using heated pressing combs

Method where the hair is wrapped around the head for drying and styling purposes

Position of a curl one-half off its base; provides medium volume and movement

Hair is cut at a 180-degree elevation to create short layers at the top and increasingly longer layers at the perimeter

Position of a curl off its base; provides maximum mobility and minimum volume

Position of a curl directly on its base; provides maximum volume

The section of a curl between the base and the first arc of the circle; gives the curl direction and movement

Methods of curling or straightening dry hair using thermal irons and/or pressing combs

Haircut in which all the hair is cut at the same length using a 90-degree elevation

Permanent waves that have a 7.0 or neutral pH; do not require hair-dryer heat

Perms that process at room temperature without heat with a pH range between 9.0 and 9.6

Main active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline waves

The position of the perm rod in relation to its base section

Angle at which the perm rod is positioned on the head; also, the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped

Relaxers that require the use of a base or protective cream

Subsections of panels into which the hair is divided for perm wrapping; one rod is normally placed on each base section

Perm wrap in which an end paper is folded in half over the hair ends

Partially straightens the hair with the intent that it will be picked out and cut

The process of rearranging the basic structure of extremely curly hair into a straightened form

Hair services that cause a chemical change that permanently alters the natural wave pattern of the hair

Rodding from the hair ends to the scalp

A soft-curl permanent; combination of a thio relaxer and thio permanent, whereby the hair is wrapped on perm rods; used to make existing curl larger and looser

End paper; absorbent papers used to protect and control the ends of the hair during perming services

Perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a hood-type dryer

Perms that create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats the solution and speeds up processing

Main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions

Very strong alkalis with a pH over 13; the hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers

Process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair; lanthionization breaks the hair’s disulfide bonds during processing and converts them to lanthionine bonds when the relaxer is rinsed from the hair

Permanent waving wrapping technique in which the waving solution is applied to the section before rodding

Process of stopping the action of a permanent wave solution and hardening the hair in its new form by the application of a chemical solution called the neutralizer

Relaxers that do not require application of a protective base

A process used to chemically restructure natural hair into a different wave pattern

Usually a type of leave-in conditioner that may be applied to the hair prior to permanent waving to equalize porosity

A process used to semi-straighten extremely curly hair into a more manageable texture and wave pattern

Relaxers that usually have a pH above 10 and a higher concentration of ATG than is used in permanent waving

Perms that have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0 and require heat to speed processing; process more slowly than alkaline waves, and do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves

An oxidizer, consisting of powdered persulfate salts, that is added to haircolors, lighteners, or hydrogen peroxide to increase the chemical action of the product

Uncolored dye precursors that combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent color molecules in the cortex; the ingredient that requires a patch test

The predominant tone of an existing color

Coloring or lightening technique that involves pulling strands of hair through a perforated cap with a plastic or metal hook

Equalize porosity and deposit color in one application to provide a uniform contributing pigment on pre-lightened hair

A primary and secondary color positioned opposite each other on the color wheel

Pigment that lies under the natural hair color that is exposed when the natural color is lightened

Deposit-only haircolor product similar to semipermanent but longer lasting

Also known as oxidizing agents or catalysts; when mixed with an oxidation hair-color, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop color molecules and create a change in hair color

A two-step combination of lightening and haircoloring

Products used to strip built-up color from the hair

Preparations designed to equalize porosity and/or deposit a base color in one application

Coloring or highlighting technique using foil to apply product to specific hair sections

Also known as balyage or baliage; the painting of a lightener on clean, styled hair

Industry-coined term referring to artificial haircolor products and services; the addition of color on or into the hair shaft

The chemical process of diffusing natural or artificial pigment from the hair

Coloring or lightening some strands of hair lighter than the natural color

Basic name of a color

System for understanding color relationships

Unit of measurement to identify the lightness or darkness of a color

System used to analyze the lightness or darkness of a hair color or color product

Chemical compounds that lighten hair by dispersing and diffusing natural pigment

A visible line separating colored hair from new growth

Coloring some strands of hair darker than the natural hair color

Lighteners that cannot be used directly on the scalp

Lighteners that can be used directly on the scalp

Test for identifying a possible allergy to aniline derivative products; required by the FDA 24 to 48 hours before the application of the product

Lighten and deposit color at the same time and in a single process because they are more alkaline than no-lift, deposit-only colors and are usually mixed with a higher-volume developer

The first step of a double-process haircoloring; used to lighten natural pigment

Process of treating resistant hair for better color penetration

Red, blue, and yellow; colors that cannot be achieved from a mixture of other colors

Haircolor products that contain compound or metallic dyes, which build up on the hair; not used professionally

Application of the product to new growth only

Colors obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors

Deposit-only haircolor product formulated to last through several shampoos

Process that lightens and colors the hair in a single application

Equal parts of tint and a shampoo

The application of a coloring or lightening product to determine how the hair will react to the formula and the amount of time it will take to process

Color products that last only from shampoo to shampoo

Term used to describe the warmth or coolness of a color.

Semipermanent, demipermanent, or permanent haircolor products used primarily on pre-lightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colors

The first time the hair is tinted or lightened

The measure of the potential oxidation of varying strengths of hydrogen peroxide